The quality of a finished item in the apparel industry mostly depends on the quality of fabric when it is collected as a roll from mills. Even it occupies 60/70 percent of total garments cost. Apparel industry should take some defensive actions to ensure the quality fabric is only being used in their items and set up fabric inspection department with modern equipment and skilled manpower.
It is expected that a Garments Producer to inspect minimum 10% per color or more of any consignment when they got and assess them based on a four-point system. By this process, they can minimize fabric related quality troubles before it moved to production.
4-point System Fabric Inspection Pdf
The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size, quality, and significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points is assigned for any single flaw. A defect can be measured either length or width direction; the system remains the same. Only major errors are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. Whenever errors are recognized during fabric inspection under 4 points system and defect must be assigned a number of points depending on the severity or length.
In 4 point system fabric quality is evaluated by unit points/100 sq. yds. Calculation method of total penalty points for total defects found in a fabric roll or consignment. The inspector will add up the defects points and then use the following formula to determine the rate of points per 100 yards.
Inspection: The essential process of maintaining the quality of raw materials used during making the finished product is called inspection. For garments, need to check the quality of fabric, sewing thread, trims etc. The process is done following a specific SOP to check the specific items.Four-Point System: Most used method in garment industry for fabric inspection which is performed following ASTM D5430-93 ( Standard Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics ). Defects are indentified at a clearly noticable distance of 3 feet and marked with points. Every possible defects has a demerit point depending on its severity in this system.
Saveif(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined')ez_ad_units.push([[728,90],'textilestudycenter_com-large-mobile-banner-1','ezslot_1',600,'0','0']);__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-textilestudycenter_com-large-mobile-banner-1-0');To use this system someone have to know following things:Fabric inspection method or preparationVast idea on nature of fabric defects (how an error looks and its appearance)Criteria of giving penalty points based on defects and defect lengthCalculation method of total penalty points for total defects found in a fabric roll or thanA Check sheet or format for recording dataFabric Inspection Method: Fabric is inspected to determine its acceptability from a quality view point. There are various fabric inspection systems such as- 4- point system 10- Point system 2.5- point system etc.Defect Classification: The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size, quality, and significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points is assigned for any single flaw. A defect can be measured either length or width direction; the system remains the same. Only major errors are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. Whenever errors are recognized during fabric inspection under 4 points system and defect must be assigned a number of points depending on the severity or length.
Holes and openings (the largest dimension)Points1 or less2Over 14General Inspection ProceduresFabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation and proper lighting.Fabric passing through the frame must be between 45-60 degree angles to inspector and must be done on appropriate Cool White light 2 F96 fluorescent bulbs above viewing area. Back light can be used as and when needed.Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per minute.Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be available prior to inspection (if possible)Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection for assessing color, construction, finish and visual appearance.Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between centre and selvage and the beginning, middle and end of each roll must be evaluated and documented.if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined')ez_ad_units.push([[250,250],'textilestudycenter_com-box-4','ezslot_18',260,'0','0']);__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-textilestudycenter_com-box-4-0');Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight.Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard.All defects must be flagged during inspectionThe length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned on supplier ticketed tag and any deviation must be documented and reported to mill for additional replacement to avoid shortage.If yarn dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the repeat measurement must be done from beginning, middle and end of selected rolls.No penalty points are recorded or assigned for minor defects. Only major defects are considered. Calculation of total points per yardsIn 4 point system fabric quality is evaluated by unit points/100 yd2Saveif(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined')ez_ad_units.push([[728,90],'textilestudycenter_com-leader-2','ezslot_17',601,'0','0']);__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-textilestudycenter_com-leader-2-0');Acceptable Level:Many used to say that up to 40 points per 100 square yards is acceptable. In the apparel and textile industry, textile mills, apparel brands and buyers set their own standards for acceptable points. A standards level is set by ASTM. Many mills grade fabrics as first quality and second quality instead of just Pass/Fail the fabric roll or fabric lot. Again grading is done based number of penalty points per 100 square yards.
Fabric inspections are generally done by machines. Fabric roll is held or hung at the back of the machine and the fabric from the roll is pulled over the glass of the inspection table and it is wound in another role placed in front of the machine. Fabric unwinding from one roll and wound in another is done by motor or by manually. The speed of the fabric can be controlled that means it can be increased or decreased. Arrangement of light is done from the lower end of the glass of the inspection table. As a result, during passing of the fabrics on the glass, if there are any defects in fabrics, they can easily be detected and they are marked right away so that later on specially, during spreading or cutting of fabrics, necessary steps are taken for those defects. During inspection of fabric in this machine, the total length of the fabric in the roll can automatically be known and also there is system for measuring the width of the fabric in the roll. In the supplied lot of fabrics, the difference of widths in rolls is more important than the difference in lengths of fabrics in the rolls. Because due to the differences in the width of fabric rolls, changing of markers may be required, also wastage of fabrics may happen.
There are different systems for fabric inspection, such as 4 Point System, 10 Point System, 2.5 Point System, Grantville System etc. but in the above mentioned systems, or in any other systems, there are no arrangements until recently, for considering of the shade, bias, handling etc., of fabrics. The Four Point System for fabrics inspection has been described here. Because the system of examining of the quality of fabrics in this system, has been recognized by American Association of Quality Control (AAQC).
4 Point System for fabric inspection is widely used in garment industry for fabric quality inspection. It is a tool for satisfying internal as well as external customer. In this fabric inspection system, the number of defect points in one hundred square yards of fabrics is determined through inspection. If the defect points in each one hundred square yards of fabrics be 40 or above, then that fabric will be considered as rejected. Based on the price and quality of garments, the acceptability of defect points may be determined more than 40 also, but in that case it depends on the understanding of the buyer and the seller. The chart of point determination for the defects in fabrics is given below:
The total defect points in each 100 square yards being below 40, this roll of fabric may be accepted. If defects points above 40 in 100 square yds then fabric will be rejected. It may be mentioned here that the limit or level of acceptability of fabric is ascertained by the buyer & seller of the fabric. How much the difference in length & in width in the fabrics rolls will be accepted also depends on the written contract between buyer & seller of the fabric. Inspection sampling plan is also not done by any hard & fast rule. But, 100% inspection is done on the fabrics from which the value of the apparels produced is more than US $20 & 10% inspection is done on those fabrics where the value of the apparels produced from the fabric is less than US $20.
V-Trust conducts plenty of inspections for textiles and fabrics, as well as for garments and footwear in China, India, Vietnam, Malaysia, Thailand and Bangladesh. Full-time inspectors guarantee reliable professional inspection for your products while conducting specific on-site tests to ensure the long-term quality of the goods and ultimately your reputation. 2ff7e9595c
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